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How to understand Rifle Scopes

1/16/2015

13 Comments

 
Scopes are complicated, but let's try to simplify them without "dumbing them down":

This is a diagram of the OPTICS inside a simple scope. Fixed magnification, no parallax adjustment:
Picture
In this first image, to the left is the target, the rays of reflected light bounce from the target and enter the Objective lens. This lens (a doublet in the illustration because it is made of two "nesting" lenses) focuses the image onto the First Focal Plane. But it is an INVERTED image.

So, the image then impinges into the "Erecting optics", these turn the image right side up, again using a set of doublets.

Now that the image is right side up, this manufacturer chose to "inject" the reticle image at this point, making this scope a SECOND Focal Plane scope.

In order to provide crispness to the image, scope manufacturers insert a "stop" (a metal plate with a hole) at this point. This reduces the stray light bouncing around the internals of the scope and allows the eye to perceive a "crisp" sight picture. It does not diminish light throughput because the image is already a reduced one and it already includes the reticle.

Now the image goes into the Ocular assembly that is a system of a singlet and a doublet. The focal distances of these lenses are long and therefore there is not enough distance to invert the image, it just gets magnified. The magnification is given by the distance BETWEEN the singlet and the doublet. Longer distance, less magnification; shorter distance, more magnification. In a fixed mag scope like the one in the figure the magnification is set at the factory and it cannot be changed without disassemblying the scope.
Higher magnifications also mean reduced eye relief. Dis-assembly of the scope and readjustment of the distance between the ocular elements allows for increased magnification at the cost of reducing eye relief.

This is housed inside a mechanical housing that has its own complications, again a simple scope, but this one an old Zeiss with a FIRST Focal Plane reticle:
Picture
In this illustration the target is to the RIGHT. The image of the target and the reticle coincide onto the FFP, and that gets inverted.
You will note that now we have a screw that puts downward force against a leaf spring we cannot see on the other side of the "picture reversal assembly", also known as the Erector Assembly. You will also note that the Erector (or Picture Reversal) assembly is held in pivots at the junction of the scope's tube and the ocular tube; where the Second Focal Plane Aperture (Stop) is located.
By TILTING the lenses, the image moves and with it, the reticle. Thereby moving the POA relative to the axis of the Scope's external body.

Of course all we see is the externals:

Picture
Now, when we have a variable mag scope we get another set of mechanics inside the scope, to be more precise, inside the Scope Tube, connected to the Ocular/Eyepiece tube, this set is, USUALLY, something like this:

Picture
What you see here is the "barrel" (piece #9) that gets locked into the Zoom Collar (piece #3) and that because it has two slots (9a and 9b) that have a different "pitch" where the pegs (pieces 12A and 12B) that support the two lenses in the Ocular system, now can get closer to each other, or get separated with the turn of the collar, change the magnification. This is the zoom unit. But keep in mind that this mechanism is not dissimilar to the paralax adjustment system when using a sidewhell.

So, having laid down a "language" with which we can try to understand the whole mess, let's dive into it.

Those of us that have used the old style "pirate spyglass", know that you bring your subject to focus by changing the length of the scope.
Picture
Well, riflescopes are not different. To bring the object into focus you need to change the length of your scope. But a rifle scope has no "telescoping barrels", so how do we do it?

One way is to move the Objective lens assembly. Like the old Benchrest scopes where the WHOLE assembly moved:
Picture
That posed problems for waterproofing, and so the manufacturers turned the whole moveable thing into a sealed unit, like the Vortex optics one:
Picture
Some manufacturers, like Leupold (in their EFR models) and Sightron (in their BigSky II) have even gone to the trouble of making the AO a barrel within a barrel assembly, whereby you turn on a ring that is sealed; that ring, in its turn, turns a sleeve that holds the lenses in an assembly similar to the Zoom barrel with pegs holding the lenses and those pegs riding on pitched slots.

Many years ago, John Unertl made a scope he called "the Programmer", because the pitch of the slots was made in such a way that uniform rotations yielded uniform focus distance changes. Alas there was no FT way back then and the feature had no value for the shooters. So it was dropped as it was expensive to incorporate. Nowadays Unertls can fetch upwards of $800 and Programmers in particular are so scarce that no collector is letting anyone shoot his, or releasing one into the real world.

Now, ¿WHY do the slot in the Programmer had to be SO COMPLICATED?

The answer lies in this graph:

Picture
This is the inverse graph, the one that relates the distance of movement of the lens to the change in distance of objects in focus.

Forget the bottom left quadrant and focus (pun intended) on the top right quadrant. Think that the horizontal axis is the distance to the object you want to focus, and that on the vertical plane you have the position that the Objective lens has to be at relative to some reference in the scope, to focus at that distance. Let's just think of the vertical axis as being in mm's and the horizontal axis being in "Chains" (twenty meters approx):

If you change the objective lens position from 5.0 to 2.0. you have now changed your focus from objects that were in position 0.2 Chains to position 0.5 Chains; a movement of 0.3 Chains  on the distance scale needed a movement of 3 units on the objective lens position. Or, in other words, when an object moves from being 4 meters (0.2 Chains) to being 10 meters (0.5 Chains) away, you need to move the objective 3 mm's. 
If you now want to focus on objects that are now in position 1 (20 meters), you now move the objective lens from position 2.0 to position 1.0, PLEASE note that 1 mm's of Objective lens movement has moved the focus point 10 meters from 0.5 chains to 1 chain.
NOW, If you want to focus on objects that are at position 2.0 (40 meters), then you only need to move the ocular lens ½ mm to position 0.5.

You have moved the focus from 20 meters to 40 meters with only ½ mm's of displacement of the lens.

If the object moved to 80 meters (4 chains), then the Objective lens moves to ¼ mm's.

"Ranging" farther and farther becomes harder and harder.

You might say "We ALL knew that DUUUUUH!", perhaps. But now you know WHY. 

Furthermore, what is true of absolutes is also true of relatives, and here comes an important conclusion: Small irregularities on the lens surfaces are nothing more than additional lenses in the optical path. So the lesser the quality of the lens, the HARDER UPON HARDER it will be to obtain a good rangefinding.

So, now that we understand how AO scopes work and why the marks get closer and closer as the distances get longer and longer, how does a sidewheel scope does it?
Picture
In modern Sidewheel scopes, most of the times, we have a much larger "saddle", the big block that holds together the front tube and the back tube, or in monoblock scopes, the large bulky housing in the middle.
Inside that "saddle", there is an axle and a cog wheel, something like this:
Picture
I said something LIKE THIS, not exactly like this! LOL!
Anyway, there is inside a small version of these sluice gate opening mechanism.

The sidewheel turns an axle that then turns another gear that spins the sleeve that has the pitched slots that hold the pegs that hold the lenses.

In sophisticated scopes, the complete arrangement will be substantially more complicated to remove slack and play and inaccuracies, they can use Spiral teeth and Hypoid alignments, springs and all sorts of devices to remove, as much as possible, the slack and the backlash.

Yes there are good scopes, but NONE are completely independent of slack and backlash.

If now I may recall your attention to the pitched slots in the barrel and the concept of the Programmer scope, it is not a large leap to understand that there are ways to cut the slots so that the sidewheel itself gets MORE resolution at certain points in the rotation than in others. You can use a bigger pitch for the "close" distances and progressively fine pitches for the longer distances.
IOR, March, S&B, Leupold, and others have used this concept. Problem when dealing with THIN tubes with slots cut into them made out of relatively light and easy to machine materials is that the TEMPERATURE CAN wreak havoc with all the maths that went into the design.
Picture
What we, shooters, have done is to "help" the sidewheel do its job. The advent of larger and larger sidewheels is a clear indication that DISTANCE along the sidewheel tape is more important to the shooter than angular displacement.

Some of us are working in offset center wheels, or logarithmic wheels that take into consideration the need for length on the tape as the needed angular displacement is reduced for small increases at long ranges.

There is always the possibility to leap forward by taking a step back. There is at least one manufacturer that offers a 720º revolution AO, and that offers very interesting possibilities as the distance progression can be spread over twice the angular distance, this creates, theoretically, twice the linear space to place all the distances. We'll be testing that theory soon.

So, to conclude:

A scope has mechanical and optical parts. They BOTH have to work well to give good results.
The mechanical part is currently the limitation to the performance. The machining of consistently high quality pieces with precision in the 0.0001" makes for expensive methods, setups, labour and materials. Glass has become inexpensive in relation to the mechanical parts. High quality glass is, and always will be, expensive, VERY few scopes use REALLY Top Tier Optics, those that do usually pair up with mechanisms that are commensurately precise, so expense comes back into the picture.

What will the future bring?
Probably a discontinuity. Video scopes are advancing at leaps and bounds. And once you get high quality glass with HD CCD's, the resolutions possible exceed human vision acuity with ease. And the jump from there to fully computerized, electronic scopesight/video/GPS device is relatively simple. 

Unless you are like me, a confirmed masochist that wants to "make do" with "squirrel guns" and "common scopes", perhaps you owe it to yourself to buy at least one REALLY GOOD scope. But . . .

that is up to you.

;-)

Keep well and shoot straight!
13 Comments
Alejandro O. Martinez
1/31/2015 15:55:21

Hector you stated you owned " ... TacVector 2-12X42, to an Advanced Optics 6-25X56." --- ( http://www.network54.com/Forum/451309/message/1421870871/In+a+way%2C+yes.) Can you post a link to the source for the optics? Is the Tac Vector (http://www.scvector.biz/Products/applications/First-Focal-Plane-Scope.html?page=1) associated with Vector Optics (http://www.vectoroptics.com/Vector-Optics-First-Focal-Plane-Scope-Category.html)? And, are the model you referred-to springer rated?

Reply
Alejandro O. Martinez
1/31/2015 16:42:31

Refer to above: "... TacVector 2-12X42, to an Advanced Optics 6-25X56." --- Can you post a link to the source for the Advanced Optics 6-25X56? Is Advanced Optics associated with Ade Advanced Optics (http://www.adeadvancedoptics.com/)? And, is this model springer rated?

Reply
Hector Medina
2/1/2015 08:44:28

Yes it is the same company. But the scope I am referring to in my post is not in their website.
You can purchase this one by going to EBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ade-Advanced-Optics-6-25x56-First-Focal-Plane-FFP-Rifle-Scope-MOA-Reticle-30mm-/330888667944?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d0a806328

It is supposed to be springer rated, but I am not so much concerned with that now that the ZR Mount has proven its consistency.

Again, my apologies for the delay, but my illness took me out for almost a full month.

HTH

Hector Medina
2/1/2015 08:35:09

Hello Alejandro!

Sorry for the delay, I've been somewhat ill.

Tac-Vector Optics is a brand from Shanghai Sunclear Optics Corp.

Sourcing these scopes is not easy, but not impossible. If you are interested in a single unit you can contact sellers of the company's distribution network either through EBay, or Made in China:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vector-Optics-Tactical-Gladiator-2-12x32-First-Focal-Plane-Comp-35mm-Riflescope-/111026314053

http://vectoroptics.en.made-in-china.com/product/NMZxsViDntRg/China-Vector-Optics-Gladiator-2-12X32-First-Focal-Plane-Tactical-Compact-35mm-Ar15-Rifle-Scope-10y-Side-Focus.html

If you are prepared to make a bulk purchase, then AliBaba is a better bet.

SCVectorIOptics is another marketing branch. If you contact them they can place a unit at your disposal.

This is scope is big and heavy for the magnification range, and the reticle is not that finely made. BUT it is springer rated (as long as you mount and shoot it optically centered) and has held zero.

Reply
Alejandro O. Martinez
2/1/2015 10:35:48

"It is supposed to be springer rated, but I am not so much concerned with that now that the ZR Mount has proven its consistency." --- Since Umarex USA is not importing the ZR Mount ... how or where can I buy a ZR Mount in America.

Reply
Marcos
4/17/2015 08:12:14

Hi Héctor.

I only use spring/gas piston rifles and my comment is about scopes’ health; the scopes' reliability after some thousand rounds.

When a scope actually breaks, broken part(s), there is a problem but the diagnostic is obvious.

If we can’t get decent groups anymore or they are not consistently repeatable, I think this 'POI shifting' issue it is a much worst problem. The scope seems to be unreliable, but are you absolutely sure?

Among the usual suspects, I usually do a step by step elimination process – rifle? Me? Pellets? Scope?

After a careful scanning, if I think I’m comfortable to eliminate the others, I usually point my finger to the scope. Even then, I’m only “almost sure”, due there are always the other factors acting at the same time to cause the POI shifting, usually the feedback we use.

It seems to me we may do some tests to be 100% conclusive about the scope’s health.

If, only if, we can trust the reliability of the scope’s optical center (OC), it may become an objective referential to test the scope.
If a scope can’t hold its OC in place, can’t hold its erector tube in place, we all know in advance the POA will change, and we don’t even have to consider the POI.

To have the OC as a reliable referential in order to get reliable conclusions, it seems to me the most accurate way would be the ‘V’ method. So, if possible with that scope, we could start getting closer to the OC through the ‘mirror’ method, simpler and faster, and do the fine tuning at a V device.

Once really trusting the OC was accomplished, and for instance, we could do some other tests before the ‘recoils’, when we wouldn’t even need a rifle.

‘Zoom test’ – if the scope has a variable zoom, we may change the power some times and check the OC at the V method.

‘Turrets test’ (and/or erector tube spring) – turn ‘X’ clicks to the right, same X clicks to the left, and check the OC. Do the same with the elevation turret, and check the OC. Mix both turrets adjustments to have a ‘zero sum’, and check the OC.

Recoils’ test – scope on the rifle, after a recoils’ series, check the OC. If it’s not in place, the change (that certainly will cause POI shifting) was not caused by rifle’s issues, or by the shooter, or by the pellets. It seems to me it’s conclusively a scope problem – it is not holding the erector tube in place.

In the way to get a reliable scope’s OC as a referential, also to have reliability about an eventual and relevant OC changing, I found a suggestion to an improved V device from the GTA’s member – Gapi.

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=82234.msg786512#msg786512

Btw, in this thread there is a very interesting question from VillageSniper at reply # 16 about mechanical center x optical center..

Before trying to do some actual tests, I would like to know if you agree, or, you think there is something wrong with this way of thinking.

Thank you.

Un abrazo, Marcos

Reply
HECTOR J MEDINA GOMEZ
4/20/2015 13:06:39

Hello Marcos!

In a way, you are right. The bad news is that I think it is too complicated and almost unworkable.

Think about this: You get a new scope. You optically center it. Then you mount it.
Then you sight it in.
¿do you expect the scope to be still optically centered after sighting in? I wouldn't. By the mere act of sighting it in you have moved it from the optical center. If the POI and the POA had coincided when the scope was mounted it would be a huge coincidence.

In custom guns, you usually send the gunsmith a scope and either a mount or an indication of what mount you want.
The gunsmith then sets up your gun, and when it is providing the performance you specified in your wish list, then he mounts the scope in the mount you sent or in an identical one he purchased for you and then goes about the business of regulating the barrel to the scope and mount YOU selected.

Regulating barrels is something that is done MOSTLY in double barrelled, express guns, so that when one barrel fires, the other shoots more or less to the same POI at 50 or 75 yards (remember these are dangerous game guns).
Modern centerfire gunsmiths sometimes shim the bases and silver solder them so that the gun will shoot to POI with the scope optically centered and shooting full power loads at 100 yards.
Specialists in long range guns will install droop bases (something we airgunsmiths have done since time immemorial), to maximize the scope's excursion at 1000 yards and further.

Airguns CAN use adjustable bases to make the gun shoot to POA at 35 yards, BUT most airgunners do not trust adjustable bases. RWS used to have the "C Mount", B-Square used to have the adjustable base/rings combination, SportsMatch used to have an adjustable mount. Burris introduced the Signature Rings system, where you use inserts to collimate the "optical center" of your scope with the POI. You could setup something interesting by using Millett's Angle loc rings and a dovetail to weaver adjustable rail adaptor; and there surely are others I am forgetting.

Some shooters shim the scope in different directions using celluloid film or coke can aluminum shims. IMHO this is worse than adjustable mounts because you introduce stresses in the scope that have no where to go. IF you were to choose a solid rail and shim the rail, then it might be acceptable, but the truth is that very few shooters/gunsmiths devote the needed time to ensure that the gun shoots to POA at a good-for-purpose distance.

In the long run, vibrations from the main spring will loosen almost anything. And so, airgunners do not trust adjustable mounts/bases.

Custom airgunsmiths ended up using the ages old method of regulation to make the rifle shoot to POA with an "optically centered" scope mounted in the bases of the customer's choice.

BUT, it is a tedious process, and not cheap. Not difficult, but it takes time and knowledge to execute. A normal regulation can cost between $75 and $225, depending on how difficult the specific rifle presents itself.

In the "regulation" bill you may or may not get the barrel rotated to its optimum stress point (some PCP's come equipped with "thimbles", it is mostly impossible to do in spring guns, except in VERY FEW models).

And so, unless you gun is "regulated", once you sight in the scope, you have moved everything out of the optical axis (it is not really a "center").

To use the consistency of the optical center to see if the scope is holding zero or not, would mean that you keep track of ALL the clicks you have put in and taken out from the elevation and the windage turrets, so that you can return the scope to its "pre-sight-in" condition, which would then be compared with the "OC".
As you can see, it is much more complicated than it sounds at first.

When I suspect a scope, I usually test it in two ways:

1) if I am using that scope ONLY as a non-clicker, I will put in 6 clicks, then take out 6 clicks for EVERY shot in a group.
Then I shoot a conventional group.
IF the clicked in and out group is SMALLER than the non-clicked group, then we have a scope problem.

2.- I put peep sights on the gun and test side by side peeps to scope. IF the peep sights shoot tighter groups than the scope, then we have a scope problem.

USUALLY, if you are a decent shot, you will know when your scope has failed because you will note TWO groups, instead of one at first, then even THREE groups are possible.

As a final note, let me say that of more than 35 brands of scopes I have tested ONLY the Vortex Optics Diamondback 4-12X40 AO and the AEON scopes have proven COMPLETELY reliable in strong recoiling airguns. Quite a few have passed the 12 ft-lbs test, but only the above two have passed the 25 ft-lbs. D-54 test.

HTH

Un abrazo!





Héctor

Reply
Marcos
4/20/2015 16:09:42

Hi Héctor.

I think I didn't explain well the idea. So, I'll try to put in other words.

If I'm suspecting a scope, I would take it from the rifle to optically center it. Once the OC is accomplished, I would not return it on the rifle. I would not zero the scope at all. I would not consider POI at all.
Just with the scope, and as above, I would do the zoom and turrets/erector tube spring tests.
This is just to know if after we change the zoom or the turrets (zero sum clicks), the scope keeps, or no, the OC. If it doesn't, the scope is bad. It is changing the erector tube position (and POA), when it shouldn't.
With the scope at the OC, and again on the rifle, a third test would be only 'under recoils'. Shoot some rounds (don't consider POI at all), don't touch the turrets and check the OC. If the scope is not at the OC, is because the erector tube has moved its position, simply due the recoils. So, if it's not holding, the POA is going to move, and we know in advance the POI will also move (we don't even need a target to check POI).

If you think that, at least, the idea is ok, the problem would be to really trust the OC we first did, and the eventual changes that happened.

So, we would need a very trustable device in order to get reliable comparisons of the 'OC status' - before and after - each test.

Hope I did it ok now.

Un abrazo, Marcos

Reply
HECTOR J MEDINA GOMEZ
4/21/2015 05:29:14

Marcos;

While this is much better, I still think it is too much work for something that can be accomplished with greater certainty in a simpler fashion.

Scopes can shift zero for a number of reasons, ONE of them is the erector tube getting "peened" from repeated hits at the same spot with the ball bearing or point surface that some manufacturers put at the end of the turret screws to make the contact point between erector tube and screw as friction free as possible. It sounds like a good idea, until you realize that airguns "jump" (especially the new Walthers) for each shot cycle. Check the Exac Track system from Sightron to see how much attention they place on this.

Scopes can also shift zero because the springs become fatigued, or the turret threads become worn and develop slack.

They can also shift zero if the lenses become loose and develop TINY inclinations that change for each shot.

The strongest, best scope for airguns would be a solid fixed magnification scope with externally adjustable mounts. BUT we do not like that. We look at it and say: "that's old technology". And the market drives the manufacturing. So we're stuck with what is available now.

Doing the tests I described in my last post takes about 30 minutes. Doing the tests you describe would take a couple of hours.
I can do my test of clicked groups at the sight-in session of a Match.
You need a sophisticated scope mounting device to do yours.

Would they work? Yes, I told you from the beginning it would work. BUT it takes too much time and tells you nothing more than what the simple tests tell you: That the scope does not hold zero.

One thing I would be worried is that the tests you talk about COULD tell you the scope is OK when it is NOT. A false positive would take you on a whirlwind tour exploring a number of things that will end up coming back to the scope. That is why having an "audit trail" of all the net clicks from OC would be crucial to diagnose an unhealthy scope.

I would NEVER trust the zoom in a common variable to keep the same POI!, unless it was a FFP scope; you're asking too much. You may get a scope here and there that changes LITTLE. But it is a fluke.

Now, IF doing your tests is part of your fun, then by all means do them. ¿Who am I to get in the way of your fun?

BUT doing simple tests will tell you whether the scope is good or not and that, IMHO, is all you need to know because there is precious little you can do if you determine that the "second spring on the windage side is a little weak". Not even "manufacturers" will do those tests. It is easier and cheaper to change your scope for a new one and send the claimed scope back to the Chinese maker.

I don't want to sound negative Marcos. Your tests would work. I just think that your time would be better spent doing something else.

JMHO





HM

Reply
Marcos
4/21/2015 22:54:55

Héctor.

Thank you for your patience.

Just to let you know about my profile. When I'm just replacing a main spring or testing a scope, all in my mind is "I'd rather be shooting!". I don't have fun at all when I'm troubleshooting,

The problem is I'm not being able to get rid of scopes' lost of confidence.

The idea about the 'OC consistency' came as a way we could don't depend on the POI, to don't have the other factors acting at the same time - rifle, shooter, pellet, etc.
Was just to isolate 100% - the scope, as the only factor.

Anyway, after your fantastic explanation about how it works, I'm going to test the ZR mount on my 350 with a brand new Hawke Sport 4x32 and see what happens.

Thank you.

Marcos





HECTOR J MEDINA GOMEZ
4/22/2015 01:29:35

Dear Marcos;

I know what you mean. Loosing confidence in one's scope is almost as bad as having a wire-reticle break on the course. Or suddenly finding that the reticle is not vertical anymore. You really do not know whether to laugh, or cry. I usually opt for the former, LOL!

Anyway, What is valuable about this discussion and perhaps what you need to "take away" is that it is almost impossible to completely isolate ONE item in a shooting system. And by system I mean: rifle+pellet+shooter+scope

It ALL needs to work together. Things may be good on their own, but they may be "incompatible" when put together in a system.
This "systemic" approach will yield you great results in your shooting life. Just stick to it and to the scientific method: Change ONE thing at a time.

For a number of reasons I do not trust Hawke scopes, apart from the AirMax line. Yes it is more expensive than the sport line, but in the long run you are better served by devices made for the systems you are working with.

The 350 is a wonderful machine, long and slender it is one of the VERY FEW rifles that actually benefit from a little bit of added muzzle weight.
Pay attention to the breech seal, it needs to seal but it should not add any "droop". There is a VERY narrow range of thicknesses that will do both jobs well.
ALWAYS keep a good piston seal and use ONLY "Ultimox", or "Krytox" greases in the combustion chamber. If you use anything else, you will need to degrease and clean REAL well with lacquer thinner and then re-grease using these greases. Use VERY LITTLE.
You want an air gun, not a diesel gun.

ALWAYS benchmark a system. Once it is put together and you are happy with it, shoot some test groups at different distances and file them away. When you are in doubt, get the file and compare doing new tests under the same circumstances.

When putting together your 350, ALWAYS tighten the side/front screws real snug, and then tighten the trigger guard screw. You can "tune" the harmonic vibrations of the action by loosening and tightening this trigger guard screw.

Some pellets will give you indications that they want to shoot better than they actually do; the occasional spectacular group is one such indication. Then is the time to play a little with the torque of the trigger guard screw.

Once you have everything where you want it use blue Loc-Tite on all screws and write onto the benchmark targets EXACTLY what are the settings for those benchmarks. You will need to be reminded years later when you want to repair or refurbish the rifle.

Good luck and keep us posted on how the ZR mounts worked for you in your system.

Un abrazo!




HM

Reply
John Smith link
7/18/2017 06:35:19

Excellent post, learned a lots
thanks for sharing

Reply
Marcos
7/18/2017 09:20:14

Reply



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    Hector Medina

    2012 US National WFTF Spring Piston Champion
    2012 WFTF Spring Piston Grand Prix Winner
    2013 World's WFTF Spring Piston 7th place
    2014 Texas State WFTF Piston Champion
    2014 World's WFTF Spring Piston 5th place.
    2015 Maine State Champion WFTF Piston
    2015 Massachusetts State Champion WFTF Piston
    2015 New York State Champion WFTF Piston
    2015 US National WFTF Piston 2nd Place
    2016 Canadian WFTF Piston Champion
    2016 Pyramyd Air Cup WFTF Piston 1st Place
    2017 US Nationals Open Piston 3rd Place
    2018 WFTC's Member of Team USA Champion Springers
    2018 WFTC's 4th place Veteran Springer
    2020 Puerto Rico GP Piston First Place
    2020 NC State Championships 1st Place Piston
    2022 Maryland State Champion WFTF 
    2022 WFTC's Italy Member of TEAM USA 2nd place Springers
    2022 WFTC's Italy
    2nd Place Veteran Springers

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